Life in 3 Languages

I grew up surrounded by one language: English. My encounters with other languages were few and far between, the most extended one being my three semesters of college Spanish. And then I moved to Moldova.

Now, there are three languages in my life.

Romanian, the official language of Moldova (or “Moldovan,” depending on who you ask), is in many ways the dominant language of my everyday world. I hear it on buses, in stores, on the radio, in the street, at school, and at home—it is my only means of communicating with my host family.

But, surprisingly (or, not so surprisingly, considering my job), English remains a prevalent part of my life. It is the subject I teach five days a week and the focus of three after-school clubs I lead. Every day I am conscious of its pronunciation, its grammar rules, and the millions of possible patterns in which its words can be arranged. In the hallways of my school and in even in the street, I am constantly greeted with an enthusiastic “Hello!” (and, if the person is feeling particularly brave, “Do you speak English?”).

And then there’s Russian--the language that all Moldovans understand and that a large percentage of them primarily speak. It’s the language of most Moldovan television channels and of countless books, magazines, food labels, and street signs. Because many of the students and teachers at my school are Russian speakers, I hear it on a daily basis. Even though my Russian is limited to the most basic of words and phrases (such as, “Good morning,” “I don’t understand,” “Excuse me, where is the bathroom?”), I know the sounds of it well enough that I can instantly tell when someone who had been speaking in Romanian suddenly slips into Russian. And since this happens quite a bit, this is a valuable skill.

I’ll admit that it can be frustrating that my knowledge of Romanian isn’t always enough to get me by (i.e. when I’m at a store in Chisinau and the cashier only speaks Russian, or when I’m trying to decipher the operating instructions of a household appliance which are written in that dreaded cyrillic alphabet). But it’s a fascinating thing to live in a country where the lines between languages are so often blurred.

I recently sat in on a faculty meeting in which I observed a conversation between two other teachers. One of the women spoke entirely in Romanian. The other teacher carried out her end of the conversation in Russian. They spoke like this for several minutes, completely oblivious to the fact that two different languages were being spoken.

And the other day as I was sitting in church, I noticed that the woman to the left of me was holding a Bible printed in Romanian, the woman to my right had one in Russian, and I was sandwiched in between them with an English Bible. A perfect snapshot of my life here.

So, yes, life in 3 languages can be exasperating and bizarre. And sometimes I miss the certainty of knowing that when I open my mouth, the person I'm talking to will understand me. But I like my new life. It's rich, complex, and decidedly more interesting.

This and That

Some random thoughts...

I visited a Russian-speaking church last Sunday (the language divide here affects even Sunday worship). I was invited by the pastor and his wife—they and I have a mutual acquaintance in America. She speaks excellent English and has kindly befriended me since they live fairly close (and by close I mean an hour and half and three bus rides later—public transportation is not built for speed). I really enjoyed visiting their church (it was the first Moldovan church I’ve seen so far where the woman wear pants—I was in heaven!) I was able to sit with a young woman who knows English well enough to translate everything for me. Still, it was completely frustrating not to understand a single word. My Romanian is pretty bad, but when people talk I can usually make out at least some of what they’re saying. Being there was literally going back to square one, and I did NOT like it. I need to learn Russian.

My host mom informed me the other day that I am very well behaved. Not exactly a compliment you’re looking for when you’re 23! Sometimes I get the feeling that she doesn’t quite see me as the independent, self-sufficient adult that I feel that I am. But then I think about the fact that I can’t cook, sew, preserve fruits and vegetables, tend a garden, butcher poultry, or even heat water by myself (the pilot light for our hot water has to be re-lit with a match every time and is such a complicated affair that my host mother informed me she wouldn’t teach me how because she’s afraid I’ll blow up the house—I think she has a point there). It also doesn’t help things that I do crazy, un-ladylike things, such as walk around wearing a backpack and wipe my hands to dry on my jeans after washing them. So unless I start honing my domestic skills, I think I’m destined for eternal adolescence!

This past week I acquired 3 English clubs in the course of a day. I’ll be leading two at my lyceum (5^th-8^th grades and 9^th-12^th) and one with students from the other lyceum in town. That’s in addition to the 7 different English classes I’m teaching in school. Do you think a person can get tired of her own language?

more pictures

It's a happy day, folks! I added more pictures to my Picasa web album (see link to the left of the screen). The PST album has some more, and I also created a new one. Happy viewing!

One Down...

This past week was my first week of school. I feel a sense of accomplishment writing those words, not because I did anything great, but because I survived. And because I accomplished small victories like communicating to the school librarian about the textbooks I’ll need and successfully reviewing past, present, and future simple tenses with my 12th graders. Such accomplishments are significant to me because I very rarely knew what was going on this week, let alone why. Feeling clueless is par for course for any new job. Throw into the mix a completely new set of cultural norms and a language which I don’t really know yet (not to mention the fact that some students and teachers at my school primarily speak Russian, not Romanian), and I was one lost soul.

Somehow I managed to show up to the right classes, do a little bit of teaching (usually with no prep time), and—I think—successfully hide my fear. I also managed to learn quite a bit about education in Moldova. The following observations aren’t true of every school in the Moldovan public educational system, but they are reflective of my own experience:

• There is no set schedule for the first (and sometimes even the second) week of school. Teachers find out in the morning what classes they have for that day and their times. Moldovan teachers have perfected the art of going with the flow.
  
• Students have no textbooks the first week or two of school. This is also often the case for new teachers (myself included). For some classes students have to buy their textbooks.
  
• Unlike many American middle/high schools, students only have a certain class, such as English, 2-3 times a week. There are 6 periods in a day, and school is done by 1:30.
  
• Most students start learning English in the 2nd grade and continue to study it up through 12th grade.
  
• Moldovan teachers get paid by the hour. So the more classes they teach, the higher their salary. My workload will probably be about half that of my fellow teachers.
  
  Here’s hoping that my second week will be just as enlightening but slightly less exhausting!

It's Official

It's official, folks: I am now a Peace Corps Volunteer! What was I the past ten weeks? Only a trainee. The lowest of the low. Even pond scum enjoyed a higher social status. Just kidding! Kind of. Wednesday the M23's were sworn in at the American Ambassadorial Residence. So now the PC claims us as its own. The ceremony itself was pretty cool, albeit boiling hot. We had to sit in the sun for over an hour, and I think it was a pretty hefty accomplishment that none of us passed out!

For reasons not fully comprehended on my part, I was asked to give a speech at the ceremony. Thankfully I was not expected to speak extemporaneously (my apologies to my Speech professor Dr. Stewart--I know he would NOT have approved). I wrote my speech in English, and then it was edited and translated by the powers that be. So all I had to do was practice reading it about a million times and pray fervently that I wouldn't embarrass myself. I gave it, and it went just fine. I don't think I'll be starting a Moldovan public speaking career anytime soon, but I'm okay with that.

Speaking of trying to not embarrass myself, there were tons of press at the ceremony yesterday, and I was interviewed by two different crews. My mind went into autopilot and started spitting out all the Romanian I had learned in class (Moldova is beautiful. The people are nice. I came here because I want to learn more about other cultures, etc.). I do also distinctly remember saying that I love Moldovan food and listing off my favorite dishes. I don't know if my other interview made it on-air, but here is a link to a newsclip about the ceremony. My interview is about halfway through (and if you look really hard, you can see quick snippets of me in the other parts. I was wearing a brown shirt and white skirt). http://www.trm.md/index.php?module=stiri_int&news_id=2891

Try not to laugh too hard, please! ;-)

Chickens, Grammar, and Really Bad Romanian

I came home from school yesterday to discover that my host mom had killed three of our chickens. I missed the actual beheading and de-feathering, but I did get to see the bloody chicken guts laid out in all their glory. It wasn't pretty. As I stood their chatting with my mom, trying to act nonchalant and to not stare at the chicken remains like--well, an American--it occurred to me how much my life has changed in the past 2 months. It's pretty hard to describe all the ways, but let me give you my daily schedule. That might give you a taste of what life is like here for me:

I usually wake up around 6:30. Some days I shower (I'm one of the lucky ones-my host family has a shower). I have breakfast with my host mom. She packs me a bag lunch, and then I leave for school. I meet Rebeach, Erin, and Mike (3 other trainees who live really close), and we walk downhill to school. On the way we say "Buna dimineata!"(Good morning) to everyone we pass. Some people say hello. Others just stare. In addition to people, we usually see sheep, goats, ducks, geese, chickens, turkeys, and cows. At school, there are 8 of us that study Romaian 3-4 hours a day, Monday through Saturday. After language, we either go to our hub site with all of the other trainees for technical/cultural/safety sessions or we have SDA's (self directed activties--PC lingo for free time). My host family doesn't eat dinner until 9:00, so I try to get all of my studying in before then. After dinner (in which I try my best to understand the Romanian flying around me and speak a little bit myself), I go to bed.

My schedule for the past few weeks was a bit more hectic because I had practice school. During PS, every waking hour was either spent in class, teaching, or preparing for class the next day. No free time! Practice school, in case you're wondering, is the PC's version of student teaching for us TEFL trainees. We all taught two different levels of students (I taught 8th and 11th graders). Our students were Moldovan sudents who study English in school and who volunteer to come to practice school during their vacation time. As a result, most of them were strong English speakers and pretty well behaved. My students were amazing! My 11th graders spoke English SO well. I was really impressed. Let me tell you though, teaching English is not as easy as you might think. Have you ever tried explaining why we say "It is sunny" not "Is sunny"? or why "Everyone has" but "All people have"? Native speakers of a language don't know grammar rules--they just know what sounds right!

That being said, Practice School was extremely helpful. Now I have a sense of what Moldovan students are like, and I know that I have the ability to teach. The last week of PST will be pretty easy. Most of our time will be spent reviewing for our language proficiency exam next Monday. Speaking of language, let me end this blog on a humurous note. Below are some translations of phrases inadvertently spoken by my fellow trainees (one of them is mine, but I'm not saying which one). Enjoy!

"She was wearing a tomato."
[pointing to cucumbers] "Are these married?"
"I ate myself for breakfast."
"I ate my whole host family for breakfast."
"I am going to armchair grammar."

photos...for real this time!

Technology has its moments. It really does. For instance, I am writing this blog that people halfway around the world can read 5 seconds after I post it. And I appreciate that. I really do. That being said, I think life would be a lot less stressful if we still used letters and carrier pigeons.

Some of you were lucky enough to see my photos before they mysteriously disappeared. That's all I have to say about that. For about 10 other reasons which I won't go into now because it's still to way too frustrating, I haven't been able to access my blog or re-upload my pictures since then. But now I have! So if you click on the "my photos" link, you'll actually see photos. Magic! I don't know if anyone is still reading this (since it has been ages- I can't blame anyone who has given up on checking back to see if I've updated), but I'm sure at least my parents are still faithfully checking. So Mom and Dad, this is for you. ;-)

Seriously though, I've got lots of things to write about since we just finished 3 weeks of practice school. I will write more again soon, I promise.